GEOFF MERRILL HENLEY 2009

For me, Henley is quite simply one of the greatest Australian reds — and personally, I think it’s the best red wine in Australia. Geoff Merrill describes it as the best of the best of his McLaren Vale Shiraz, and after drinking it, it’s hard to argue. I had a 2005 Henley alongside a Penfolds Grange from the same vintage, and the contrast was remarkable. The Grange was showing its age and felt like it was nearing the end of its drinking window, while the Henley seemed as though it had been bottled only yesterday — still incredibly fresh, vibrant and full of life. There’s smoked meat, licorice, spice, leather and rich plum, but what really sets it apart is the balance. The tannins are beautifully fine and velvety, the fruit still has remarkable energy, and everything flows seamlessly across the palate. After 38 months in new French oak and years in bottle, it has developed enormous complexity without losing freshness. A truly exceptional McLaren Vale Shiraz, and one of those rare wines that reminds you just how brilliantly Australian Shiraz can age.